Basement Renovation (Introduction)

This entry is part 1 of 1 in the series Basement Renovation

A while after we had finished installing the recessed lights in our basement, Ken and I started to seriously consider a major basement renovation. But, we wanted to keep the budget pretty small. Here is what we wanted to do:

  • Remove the basement bar. Although it was a fun conversation piece, and we thought it was fun when we first moved in, we never really used it for entertaining. It was at an awkward spot. We couldn’t really use the area behind the bar for anything, since it was meant for people to stand there and serve drinks I guess? After living with the basement bar for nearly 7 years, we decided that it was a fairly big waste of space. So, it was time for it to go.
Basement Renovation | Before Photos | Basement Bar
  • Create a dedicated workspace / workshop table. As you can tell in our previous posts, like our DIY DVD shelves or our Ikea Barn Door Hack, or when installing our recessed lighting, our “worktable” consisted of a plastic folding table and an old black metal table that used to serve as Ken’s desk way back in the day. Since we don’t have a garage, and hardly any yard space, our finished basement is consistently our workspace, and we wanted to have a more finished looking spot to do our work!
Basement Renovation | Before Photos
  • Get a nicer, softer carpet installed. The carpet in our basement was berber, and the texture of it drove me NUTS. There were always little strings getting loose and getting caught on things. Vacuuming the carpet was always a gamble, because a single thread pulled into the vacuum could cause like a 1/4“ strip of carpet to completely unravel and basically disappear. Plus, if the bottoms of my feet were even the slightest bit dry, sometimes the berber would like ”stick” to my feet. It was a yucky feeling!
  • Somehow update the wall paneling. This proved to be the most problematic issue. Keep in mind that our paneling is not real wood, it is a fake vinyl-type wood. So that was a major factor in considering our options. We considered:
    • Ripping down the paneling and installing drywall in its place.
      • Pros: A fresh start on the walls in the basement, getting rid of the paneling once and for all.
      • Cons: VERY expensive. Also, ripping down the paneling meant that our entire baseboard trim would have to be ripped out and redone (since the drywall would be a different depth than the paneling). Further, we’d likely have to redo our entire drop ceiling, since the “grid” of the drop ceiling was attached to the paneling. Every time we heard more and more problems with ripping down the paneling and replacing it with drywall, all we heard was money rapidly draining from our savings account. This option would cost us $10,000+. Not exactly within our “small budget” desires.
    • Drywalling OVER the existing paneling using thinner drywall (like 1/4 inch).
      • Pros: Saving labor costs of ripping down paneling. The drop ceiling grid would likely NOT have to be redone, as some sort of moulding option could have been added to hide where the drywall met the ceiling grid.
      • Cons: We weren’t sure how the moulding option would look. Also, We’d STILL have to redo our baseboard trim since the new drywall would now protrude beyond the baseboard. Furthermore, the addition of the new drywall, no matter how thin, would make the drywall almost flush with the doorway frames in our basement (like the doors to the basement bathroom and to the laundry room.) We DEFINITELY knew that would look weird.
    • Painting over the paneling (without filling in the grooves.)
      • Pros: Relatively cheap and we could DIY the paint job.
      • Cons: Labor intensive (lots of sanding, oil-based primers, and many coats of paint). Also, I was afraid that the finished look would be a bit too “country cottage” for my taste. (I found tutorials here, here and here).
    • Painting over paneling (with filling in the grooves with wood putty or drywall spackle or caulk). (I had read tutorials for this method like here and here.)
      • Pros: Relatively cheap and would avoid the “country cottage” look of painted paneling that still has grooves.
      • Cons: EXTREMELY EXTREMELY LABOR INTENSIVE. Plus, there were questions about whether filling in the grooves would end up being smooth enough to paint over. Our basement is quite large, and the thought of filling in every single one of those grooves and then having to sand them down (in addition to all the “normal” prep work that would go along with painting paneling) made me shudder!

So, what option did we go for to handle the wood paneling? It wasn’t any of the above! I’ll talk about the option that we FINALLY selected in a subsequent post in this series. But it IS AWESOME!

For reference, here are some “before” photos of our basement! (Looking cleaner than it ever has!)

Basement Renovation | Before Photos Basement Renovation | Before Photos

Notice how dark the basement is with the wood paneling, even after installing our great recessed lights!

Here are our ugly, non-dedicated work areas:

Basement Renovation | Before Photos Basement Renovation | Before Photos Basement Renovation | Before Photos

And the bar which, while fun, was a waste of space.

Basement Renovation | Before Photos Basement Renovation | Before Photos Basement Renovation | Before Photos

And, our “home theater” area with our couch, TV, and projection screen that comes down.

Basement Renovation | Before Photos Basement Renovation | Before Photos Basement Renovation | Before Photos Basement Renovation | Before Photos

The next few posts will show all the steps of renovating this basement to a more modern space!

DIY Recessed Lighting Installation in a Drop Ceiling (Ceiling Tiles), Part 3

This entry is part 3 of 3 in the series DIY Recessed Lighting Installation


DIY Recessed Lighting InstallationDIY Recessed Lighting Installation | The Process so Far!

Now that the actual lighting fixture was installed, it was time to rinse and repeat, over and over again, for each fixture we wanted installed.

As a reminder, this was the layout that we were following to install the lights (each box with an L indicates where we were going to install a light).

Diagram of Recessed Lighting in Drop Ceiling

We had it printed out and consulted it continuously throughout the installation process.

Recessed lighting drop ceiling installation layout

As a reminder, we decided to have three “zones” of lights in the basement. Each zone would be controlled by an individual switch. We had those three switches installed by an electrician before we started the DIY portion of this project. Here are the three switches that we had installed by the electricians:

Switches installed for recessed lighting

We repeated the process that we followed in Part 2 for each of the light fixtures, connecting them together and setting them up.

Installing recessed lighting housing

 

Installing recessed lighting housing

 

Testing that the Recessed Lighting Housing was Set Up Correctly

And now it was time to play god and proclaim LET THERE BE LIGHT. Just kidding, it was just time to install the lightbulbs temporarily to make sure that everything was wired properly.

Halogen lightbulbs for recessed lighting Installing lightbulb during recessed lighting installation Installing lightbulb during recessed lighting installation

After we confirmed that the lights turned on (meaning that the fixture was properly set up), it was time to close up the fixture box with the cover plate that came with the fixtures. We waited until the very end to do this, after we had confirmed that all the fixtures were working.

Installing panel enclosure on recessed lighting housing Installing panel enclosure on recessed lighting housing Installing panel enclosure on recessed lighting housing

 

Cutting Holes in Ceiling Tiles for Recessed Lighting

Now it was time to actually make those lights look pretty in the ceiling. That involved cutting holes in our ceiling tiles.

Ken created a template to make cutting process easier.

First, he took a ceiling tile and drew an X on the back of it, using a yard stick to keep things straight. This marked the exact center of the ceiling tile.

Cutting hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting | Creating a template How to center a hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting installation Cutting hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting | Creating a template

Then he drilled a small hole at the center of the X that he had just marked.

Cutting hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting Cutting hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting

And now it was time to put our template into action. We had a lot of ceiling tiles to cut holes in!

Cutting hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting

We laid a new ceiling tile on the table.

Using template to cut holes in ceiling tiles for recessed lighting installation

Then we placed the template (the tile that we had just drilled the hole in) on top of the ceiling tile.

Using template to cut holes in ceiling tiles for recessed lighting installation

We lined up the two tiles evenly.

Using template to cut holes in ceiling tiles for recessed lighting installation

And, we just drilled a hole through the existing hole in the template, all the way down to the new ceiling tile.

Now, that meant that the center of the new tile had been marked precisely without having to get out the yard stick. (Which would’ve gotten very tedious because we had so many ceiling tiles).

Next up, it was time to break out the hole saw. Our lighting trim was 4 3/8″ in diameter, so we bought this hole saw. Check out the instructions for your particular recessed lighting trim to determine what size hole saw you might need.

Hole saw used for cutting holes in ceiling tiles

We attached it to the drill.

Hole saw used for cutting holes in ceiling tiles

And then we were able to start drilling the hole precisely in the center of the ceiling tile, since we had just marked that using the template!

Cutting hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting Cutting hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting Cutting hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting Cutting hole in ceiling tile for recessed lighting

So now it was time to place the ceiling tile where one of the fixtures had already been installed.

Putting cut ceiling tiles back in ceiling around recessed lighting housing Putting cut ceiling tiles back in ceiling around recessed lighting housing Putting cut ceiling tiles back in ceiling around recessed lighting housing Putting cut ceiling tiles back in ceiling around recessed lighting housing

This took a little bit of maneuvering to get the fixture to plop precisely in the ceiling tile hole. But, it finally got there! For the trim piece that we were using, the light had to be slightly above “flush” with the ceiling tile. The positioning might vary depending on the trim style that you choose.

Recessed lighting housing in ceiling tile without trim piece

Installing Recessed Lighting Trim Piece

But, of course, it wasn’t quite done yet. Next we needed to install the trim piece. (We talked about the different trim options we considered back in Part 2).

Here is what the trim parts looked like.

Trim parts for recessed lighting

Those two metal pieces were basically little tension rods that would keep the trim piece in place. Then, there was some minimal assembly required.

Trim piece for recessed lighting

Notice the wingnut pictured here in the housing. We ended up taking it off (but while it was in the ceiling) to make the socket moveable, which we needed to do for the type of trim we were using.  So, after removing the wingnut, the socket part started to dangle.

Trim piece for recessed lighting Removing wing nuts from recessed lighting housing Socket dangling in recessed lighting housing

We discovered that, depending on the trim pieces you use, you may not have to do this step. We also discovered that some recessed lighting housings do not include “moveable” sockets, in which case you’d have to buy something like this, a socket extender.  One of the reasons we liked these housings is because it allowed the socket to be moved. So, that avoided the cost of having to buy extra extenders.

Now, we could finally install the trim piece!

Installing recessed lighting trim Installing recessed lighting trim Installing recessed lighting trim Installing recessed lighting trim Installing recessed lighting trim

Then, that was it (well, for that ceiling tile anyway!) It was just time to repeat the process for all the other ceiling tiles that would have lights! (Oh, and install the lightbulbs of course!)

Putting lightbulb in new recessed lighting fixture Final recessed lighting view Final recessed lighting view

The lighting in our basement now is SO much brighter with these recessed lights. Because we were installing so many lights, and because it was a learning process as we went, the installation process did take quite a while. Probably a month or more (just doing it in our spare time after work and on weekends). But, we estimate that it probably saved us $3000+ in electricians’ fees. (The electricians estimated it would be about 15 hours work for them at $175/hour). So, it was definitely worth it for us!


DIY Recessed Lighting Installation

DIY Recessed Lighting Installation (Part 2)

This entry is part 2 of 3 in the series DIY Recessed Lighting Installation

So, after removing the old, ugly light fixtures that we didn’t want anymore, it was time to start fresh with our new fancy recessed lighting!

Keep in mind that we are NOT electricians! This is just the process we followed for installing the lights.

We bought our recessed lighting mounts from USA Light. We started out by buying the “housing,” aka the fixture, and a few different kinds of recessed “trims”, including recessed light trims that only point down, ones that you can point in different directions, and “wall wash” trims.

We ultimately decided on the ones that just point straight down. We didn’t really have any need for the directional ones.

Here’s what one of the fixtures looked like as it sat on our table: Seriously, if somebody had asked me what this was before I actually knew, I don’t think I would’ve ever guessed. I had no idea this is what recessed lights looked like. For what it’s worth, these types of fixtures are called “new construction” recessed lighting fixtures (as opposed to “remodel” fixtures, which are used in pre-constructed drywall ceilings).

Recessed light fixture for drop ceiling Recessed light fixture for drop ceiling

There was a small box on the one side of the fixture that we needed to work on before the light could ever go in the ceiling (It wasn’t totally necessary to work on it before putting it in the ceiling, but it was easier to work on it on the table instead of over our head!).

Box on the side of the recessed lighting fixture

The box had some cables in it, which Ken pulled out to make it easier to work with.

Wires inside the recessed lighting

Then, he turned the fixture to the side and removed one of the little round tabs.

Preparing recessed lighting fixtures for installation Preparing recessed lighting fixtures for installation Preparing recessed lighting fixtures for installation

(Note the wires coming out of the fixture. Those came pre-installed with the fixture. This is important because we refer to it later in this post. Those things on the ends of the wires are called “push-in connectors.”)

Then he flipped the fixture to the other side and removed the top round tab.  Keep in mind that it doesn’t really matter which of the tabs we removed. We just removed the ones we thought would be easiest to work with when we were wiring. Basically we needed two of them removed so that we could put wires going “in” to the fixture, as well as wires going “out” from the fixture to the neighboring fixture.  If this was the last fixture we were installing, we’d just punch out one of the tabs for the wires coming “in.”

Preparing recessed lighting fixtures for installation

Those round tabs he removed had to be replaced with these things called clamp connectors, which we made sure matched the size of the tab holes on our fixture. These were important to have because the hole where we removed the tabs were quite sharp on the edges. It also wouldn’t do much to secure the wires (from moving around) if you don’t have the clamp connectors.  Wires and sharp edges don’t sound very safe, so we definitely wanted to use the clamp connectors.

Installing clamp connectors on recessed lighting fixture

They’re actually two parts, and he unscrewed them because each part would have to go on opposite sides of the hole.

Installing clamp connectors on recessed lighting fixture Installing clamp connectors on recessed lighting fixture

Voila.

Now it was time to position the fixture in our ceiling and do some initial wiring.

Putting recessed lighting fixture in drop ceiling

The fixtures have these little slots in them that allow them to sit perfectly on the drop ceiling grid.

Putting recessed lighting fixture in drop ceiling Putting recessed lighting fixture in drop ceiling

Next, we took some wire called Romex 14/2 wire. Ken had figured it all out the type of Romex wire we needed. We wanted 14 gauge, and 2 (14/2) for the number of wires not counting the ground inside the wire.  Since, for this part, we weren’t wiring the fixture directly to a switch (just light fixture to light fixture, the wiring to the switch had already been done by the electricians), we didn’t need one of the “3” Romex wires.

Romex wire

(Sorry, I didn’t get a picture of the wire in the bag, so this crumpled up photo of the bag is all you get:)

Romex wire

Ken and I fished up the Romex wire into the ceiling, just roughly where it needed to go.

Installing romex wire during recessed lighting installation process

Then he took some wire strippers to cut off the outer sheath of the Romex wire.

Installing romex wire during recessed lighting installation process Installing romex wire during recessed lighting installation process Installing romex wire during recessed lighting installation process

The inside of that wire consisted of three thinner wires: one white, and one black, and one “bare” (copper) wire. Ken pulled those three wires (still attached to the white sheath), through the hole where he had removed those tabs from and had subsequently affixed the clamp connector to.

Wiring recessed lighting fixture Wiring recessed lighting fixture

Then he attached tightened the clamp connector, ensuring that the wires are secure and don’t move. (There were screws on the clamp connector to do this).

Now it was time to connect those new wires (from the stripped sheathing) to the existing wires that came with the recessed lighting fixture.  (The wires that we pointed out to remember in the earlier picture 🙂 )

He cut off the sheathing from the black and white wires (the insulation of the wires). Then, he matched “like with like” by inserting the freshly unsheathed wires into the “push in connector” of the wires that came with the fixture. So, he put the wire that had the black sheath in the push in connector that had the black wire on the fixture, the one with the white sheath to the white push-in connector, and the bare wire to the “green” wire push-in-connector.

Wiring recessed lighting fixture

Whew! Okay, I think that’s enough for Part 2, what do you think?  We’ll talk more about the next steps in our process in Part 3!

DIY Recessed Lighting Installation

DIY Recessed Lighting Installation in a Drop Ceiling (Ceiling Tiles) – Prep Work

This entry is part 1 of 3 in the series DIY Recessed Lighting Installation

Last year, when I talked about our DIY DVD shelf project, I apologized in the post for the terrible lighting in our photos because our basement was so poorly lit. Our basement has zero windows. It has a set of french doors that lead out to our patio, but the doors are directly under our deck, meaning we get virtually no light. We had a whopping three ceiling lights in our 600 square foot basement, one of which we actually uninstalled after we moved in because it was right over our sofa and shined right in our eyes as we watched TV.

In other words, the ceiling lights in our basement were virtually useless and horrendously ugly. We tried to make do with floorlamps and task lights and even some sconces, but it was always dark in our basement, even in the middle of the afternoon.

DIY Recessed Lighting Installation

We had always tinkered with the idea of getting recessed lighting, but we shuddered at the thought of the electrician’s bill. We’d want 22 lights installed, and we estimated that would be about 16 hours of work. At $175/hour for our electricians, we just kept putting off the task as too expensive.

Then Ken started tinkering with the idea of doing the recessed lighting himself. He had done some other small scale electrical work around the house before, but I’m always pretty nervous when he’s playing with electrical wires. It doesn’t matter if the circuit breakers are turned off and his wire tester says the wires are off, it still makes me nervous, even though it shouldn’t.

Since we have a drop ceiling in our basement, all the wires he would need would be easily accessible, and doing it himself would save us a crap-ton of money. And, as the real bonus, of course, we’d actually BE ABLE TO SEE THINGS in our basement thanks to the added light.

 

Prep Work from the Electricians

So, I say we DIYed this project, but in reality, we did need to have the electricians come and do some preliminary work. But, it was only about 90 minutes of work instead of 16 hours. That’s a much smaller bill!

This is what we needed from our electricians:

  • Install switches on the electrical circuit breaker panel for the new lights.  We had one switch installed for each “zone” that we wanted (more on the zones below)
  • Install physical switches on the wall to control the lights. Then using their magical electrician work, they wired the wall switches to the electric panel.
Three new switches for our lighting, installed by the electricians

Diagraming the Basement Ceiling

Before the electricians came, however, we did a decent amount of prep work. First, Ken made a “map” of all our ceiling tiles. He made notations where the ceiling tiles could not be used for lights, such as ceiling tiles that already housed air conditioning vents, where we mount our movie projector, and where we have speakers mounted in the ceiling. Then, in the illustration, he marked where he intended to eventually install the lights.  (OL=tile with old light fixture. L=tile where we wanted new light fixtures installed).

Diagram of Recessed Lighting in Drop Ceiling

The illustration was so helpful in figuring out precisely where we wanted our new recessed lights. And it helped make sure they were evenly spaced out, and that we wouldn’t have a bright light right above our sofa shining in our face as we watched TV and made sure we didn’t accidentally plan to install recessed lights in a ceiling tile that was already being used, like for a vent or our projector.

Lighting Zones

Next, we needed to decide how many switches we wanted. We did this by deciding on different “zones” for our basement. We didn’t want all the basement lights to turn on at once. For instance, if we were working on a project on the one end of the basement, there would be no reason to have the lights on over by the couch and TV. However, if I’m doing a workout DVD in the basement, I might want the lights on by the TV, but don’t need them on in the other end of the basement.

You get the idea.

We decided on four zones (In the above diagram, zone one was columns 1-5 (with the exception of C5, which we added to zone two), zone two was columns 7-9, zone 3 was columns 11-15, and zone 4 was C1 and B2 (basically the lights we’d want on when walking up and down the stairs). Which meant that we needed the electricians to install three light switches, one for each zone, since we wanted to be able to control each zone separately. (The fourth zone, C1 and B2, were already controlled separately by an existing light switch, so we didn’t need any changes on that one).

The electricians installed the switches on the wall, wired it up to the new switches on the breaker panel, and then Ken was ready to proceed with his part of the project!

 

Removing the old, ugly light fixtures in preparation for the new ones!

Hopefully this goes without say, but WE ARE NOT ELECTRICIANS.  Working with electricity is risky, makes me nervous, and you should always ask an electrician for help! 

(It’s worth pointing out that we purchased some extra ceiling tiles before this project. We figured we’d mess a few of them up, and then we also needed some new ones to replace the spots where we were removing old light fixtures).

So, we started with removing the old, terrible, annoying lights that we didn’t want anymore. Please look at how hideous these lights were:

Ugly light fixture in drop ceiling Ugly light fixture in drop ceiling

First, we shut off the circuit breakers for all the ceiling lights. Then we took the tile out of the ceiling and just kind of let the fixture hang.

t

Ken confirmed that the electricity was off to those fixtures by using his wire tester. In this photo, he first confirmed it was on, and then turned off the circuit breaker and verified again using the tester. It was a blinking red light, meaning the power was off).

t t

Then, after confirming that the electricity was off, Ken disconnected removed the front of the wire housing box

t t

Then he removed the wire from the old light fixture. He did that by using a screwdriver to loosen the “wire clamp” on the old fixture.

t

For the wires inside the housing “box” in the fixture, Ken removed the yellow wire nuts (which are actually the wires that are “combined” in the thick white wire, but just not sheathed together).

t

Since he had already removed the wire clamp above, the two individual wires (revealed after the wire nuts were removed) were able to just slip through the loosened clamp.  (He didn’t have to put wire nuts back on the ends because the power had been disconnected to those wires, so that wouldn’t pose danger in our ceiling)

All our prep work was done!  It was time to start installing the new light fixtures in the ceiling, which we’ll cover in the next post in this series!

Ikea Pax Wardrobe Doors as Sliding Closet Doors (FAQs and Updates)

One of the most popular posts here at SuperNoVAwife is our tutorial for using Ikea Pax Wardrobe doors as sliding closet doors for our kitchen pantry.  

There have been a lot of follow-up questions on that post (and it makes me realize I left out a lot of details from the post, so please forgive me!), so I thought I’d compile the answers in one, consolidated post in the hopes that it helps other folks trying out this project.

(Thanks to all the folks that have submitted questions, whether in the comments of the original post or by email).

 

Scott asks Did you drill extra holes for more screws into your top rail or did you just use the two screws that come with the pax doors to hold everything up?”

Answer:  We definitely drilled more holes in the top rail.  We drilled seven additional holes in the top track and used seven of these 10 by 3-1/8-Inch Structural Screws

As I mentioned in the original post, these doors are, by far, the heaviest Ikea furnishings we’ve ever purchased.  We wanted to make sure that these doors weren’t going anywhere!  So, we purchased some very heavy duty screws.   

 

PaxFan, KimandKreg, and Guillaume all had questions about the bottom track:  Did you use a floor guide or bottom track? Do the doors swing without these?

Long story short: At first, we did not install the bottom track (also referred to as the floor guide in the question).  The doors DID function mostly fine without the bottom track. But ultimately, we ended up installing the bottom track.  

Okay, now for the longer version.  The doors, without the bottom track, slid fairly well without the bottom track.  The two doors did occasionally bump into each or into the wall, but we just kind of “lifted” the doors away from the wall when we would open or close the sliding door.  As I write that, it probably sounds like an annoying process to handle the doors, but it really wasn’t that bad.  

But after a week or so, we did end up installing the bottom track that came with the Pax doors.  

We mostly followed the installation directions in the Pax instructions book provided by Ikea.  However, we ran into a small problem.  The bottom track has to be at a precise distance away from the top track (since the bottom of the door has to glide directly on the track).  When we went to install the bottom track, it ended up sitting directly on our floor baseboard trim.  Since the trim is a curved surface, and not exactly a strong piece of wood, we opted for a minor modification.

Sorry we don’t have pictures of this process, but we cut out a notch of the baseboard trim, and then we put a thin piece of scrap wood where the notch cutout was, and then screwed the scrap wood to the wall.  We then attached the bottom track to those scrap pieces of wood.  We affixed the track to the wood with two screws on each end of the track.  We also used a small piece of scrap wood in the middle of the track, mostly just to support the track.  We didn’t use any screws in the middle.  Just the ends.

I’m attaching some pictures I recently took that I hope helps illustrate the process.  

overview of attaching pax bottom track

pax bottom track attached to wall (entire length)

pax bottom track attached to wall

pax bottom track - middle support
I also had two questions related to whether we used the “fuzzy strips” or “bumper pads.”  

Yes to both.  We installed the fuzzy strips along the length of each door.  (Forgive the terrible photos in this section, but it’s difficult to photograph some of these things after it’s already been installed.  Apologies for leaving this out of the original post!

fuzzy strips closeup

fuzzy strips on side of pax doors

We also used the included “bumper pads.”  We used most of them as intended, which is in between the doors to prevent the doors from scratching each other or bumping each other.  Again, forgive the blurry pictures, it was difficult to photograph the space in between the doors, where the bumper pads reside.  We put bumper pads on each door at the top, middle, and bottom of each door.

bumper pads inside doors

We also used bumper pads for an alternative use.  Although it’s not the prettiest solution, we also put some bumper pads on the one side of each door.  We put them there because the one edge of our doors is flush against the top of our doorway into our kitchen (You can see what I mean by looking at the last photo in this post).  After a few too many bumps of the doors into the top of the doorway, we were experiencing some paint scrapes and chipped paint.  So, we put the bumper pads on the edges, but this wouldn’t be necessary for everybody.

IMG_5005

 

Anni asks: Looks like you have a surveillance camera pointing at the pantry – is that to catch late night snackers? LOL

Ha, good eye!  We do have surveillance cameras in our home, and this one is typically pointed in another direction, toward one of the doors in our home.  The camera probably got bumped during the installation and was pointing toward the pantry!  Although maybe I could rig some solution so that if the camera DOES catch me snacking from the pantry, it would sound some sort of alarm.  That might help with my diet!  🙂

Using Ikea Pax Wardrobe System Doors as Sliding Closet Doors (Ikea Hack). Easy DIY project!

 

I hope that everybody finds this follow-up post helpful!  Keep the questions coming if you still have more!